presents

Before you do anything: Think about whether you're willing to live with the consequences if you mess up. Please don't do anything to a truly rare machine other than gentle dusting and cleaning. The best way to get familiar with restoration techniques is to experiment on an ordinary typewriter first (how about a good old Underwood No. 5?). Whenever possible, test all these techniques on a hidden surface of the typewriter before you attack the main surfaces.

For more good ideas about restoration on the Web, check out The Typewriter Restoration Site.

Online Typewriter Support, by Will Davis, provides further advice on operating, maintaining, and repairing a manual typewriter.

• Soft, clean, white cotton rags. You'll go through a lot of these. The gentlest approach (recommended at first) is to wipe the typewriter with a wet rag, or a rag dipped in water with a few drops of dishwashing liquid.
• Brushes: you can try toothbrushes, nail brushes, brushes for cleaning firearms or dentures, and artist's paintbrushes.
• Dental picks are used by several hobbyists as a means of reaching and manipulating interior areas.
• Q-tips are nice for cleaning hard-to-reach areas.
• Instead of using Q-Tips, you can also roll your own swabs using wooden applicator sticks (6" long x 1/16" diameter) and cotton batting. Bamboo skewers work just as well, and they last for days/weeks. One roll of cotton batting will yield about a million swabs. As soon as a swab is dirty, you pull it off and replace it. The most important thing is to use damp--not wet--swabs. You can achieve this by rolling a wet swab on a piece of blotting paper. By doing this, you avoid flooding the surface, and water won't seep into all the wrong places.
• For initial dust removal, the vacuum-cleaner hose attachment kits sold in computer and computer supply stores and catalogs work very well. They are especially helpful in cleaning mechanical parts. One such kit is the Mini Vacuum Cleaner Set sold by Miles Kimball, 41 W. 8th Ave., Oskosh, WI 54906, tel. (414)-231-4886. It's item # 55704 and costs $ 9.98 + $ 2.99 shipping.
• For more precise blasts of compressed air, buy a canister intended for cleaning electronic equipment (these are available at most office supply stores).
• You can also just take your dusty old typewriter down to the gas station, and take advantage of their compressed air. (Probably not a great idea for rare typewriters.)

• Soft Scrub is a gentle liquid cleanser that is easily available. To remove heavy dirt, try applying diluted Soft Scrub with a finger or rag, and removing it with a rag, over and over and over. Careful: some finishes will be scratched even by this cleanser. But my Caligraph required vigorous scrubbing with undiluted Soft Scrub!
• Try Dentucreme: "yes, the toothpaste for dentures. It is very mildly abrasive and extremely effective on surfaces that would show scratches. I use it on mother-of-pearl and other delicate surfaces." --Lane Welch
• Steve Maloney reports that "Gojo," a hand cleaner, is excellent for cleaning original lacquer black.
• Gun cleaning solvents can be very useful. I have had good luck with Birchwood Casey Gun Scrubber. Other products I have heard about are M-Pro gun cleaning spray, G-96, and Break Free.
• Liquid Wrench Deodorized Super Penetrant has worked very well for me in removing old oil and lubricating mechanisms. It frees up sluggish typebars and jammed parts.
• Stronger products (use outdoors, and test inconspicuously on decals and paint) include naphtha (lighter fluid) and carburetor cleaner.
• "Also a good cleaner is equal parts of acetone, automatic transmission fluid, kerosene, and mineral spirits. Be careful of the acetone, however. This is a standard firearms cleaning mixture for cleaning bores, etc. For really gunked up typewriters, it works pretty good." --Paul Ross
• Mineral spirits (e.g., Varsol or Stoddard Solvent, available at paint stores) have been recommended to me. "Brush the mineral spirits on, using a natural-fiber brush which is bonded onto the handle with metal, not plastic. The machine should then be GENTLY blown out with an air compressor. Then apply a light lubrication to moving parts."
• Oil will improve the functioning of some parts, notably when applied to the carriage rails. Apply very sparingly, with the end of a pin or paper clip. Use a light, high-grade oil. 3-in-1 Oil is an easily available option. Probably a better choice is gun oil, such as Hoppe's Gun Oil. It's a bad idea to put oil in the segment (the slotted piece that holds the typebars); the oil can get dirty and gummy after a while. A degreaser is better.
• "When performing cleaning and lubrication, I would recommend following up after degreasers and lighter oils with a heavier oil. Also, oils used around chipped and delaminating coatings may contribute to further delamination. For instance, for blowing out dusts, removing some grease buildup, and to leave behind a think layer of lubricant, I would recommend using 'TV Tuner Cleaner,' and then follow up with a '3 in 1' type oil." -- Paul Dobias
• "Automatic transmission fluid, thinned 50% with kerosene, is an excellent rust preventive and general lubricant. Lots of anti-oxidant material in it, so it doesn't 'gum up' with time. As usual, in oiling, apply sparingly." --Paul Ross
• Instead of lubricating with oil, which can eventually collect dust and make the mechanism stick again, you can try dry, powdered graphite. (This is not recommended for use on anything that has aluminum, since graphite has a high galvanic difference to aluminum and will pit and corrode it.)
• Platen cleaning: after an initial wiping with water and Soft Scrub, several brands of rubber/plastic restorer made for cars work well (e.g. Armor All). However, none will make a browned, aged platen turn black. If one is concerned about the preservation of an old platen, probably there are chemical-effect risks involved in the use of inks to dye the platen. To recover a platen, see "Mechanical repairs" below.
• Fedron Rubber Cleaner Conditioner is a heavy-duty solvent that really cleans type and platens. If you can find a dauber (like the type used for liquid shoe polish) spread a thin coating on the type and let it work for about a minute or two, then wipe off with a rag. For the platen, if the platen can be removed, put some Fedron on a rag and wipe the rubber off. It instantly removes dirt, ink, and rust marks. Fedron is harsh: be sure to keep it away from paint, decals, and all delicate parts and materials (such as string and plastic). Use in a well-ventilated area: it stinks!
• An old platen may get hard and slick, so that it doesn't grip paper properly. Short of replacing it, you can try vigorous scrubbing with Soft Scrub. It can also help to roughen the platen by scrubbing it gently with soft steel wool.

• Rust removal should be attempted by the gentlest method first. In order from gentlest to roughest, I recommend: Mother's Mag & Aluminum Polish (available at auto supply stores); superfine steel wool (try to avoid getting the steel filings into the mechanism); rougher steel wool; a synthetic scrubbing pad; a rotary tool (such as a Dremel) with a wire brush attachment (I recommend the cup-shaped brush; wear eye protection, as bits of wire will fly off); a rotary tool with a cratex attachment (rubber impregnated with a tough material). The cratex attachments do a great job of removing rust, but they will leave a mark; use them for initial heavy rust removal, then finish with a wire brush to smooth out the finish.
• A correspondent recommends a chemical product called "The Must For Rust," available at The Home Depot; parts are immersed in the product for half an hour and the rust disappears. Of course, finishes or paints may be harmed, so use caution.
• "For minor rust removal, try using an electric eraser (also known as an 'architect's eraser'). Koh-I-Noor and Staedtler both make fairly inexpensive models with a variety of eraser refills. The gray, ink erasers are the most aggressive. The soft, white refills are especially good for removing light surface dirt and oxide layers (practice on a tarnished penny!)."
• Here's a really easy way to touch up small spots of black paint (which is by far the most common color on early typewriters): use a permanent black marker. This is easy to apply, lies flat on the surface, and can make a big difference. Despite the term "permanent," it is also easier to remove than paint.
• What if you want or need to use real paint? Touch-up paint for cars, which is sold in tiny bottles in auto shops, can be handy here. It dries to a glossy finish and is not thick or clumpy, as long as it's shaken enough in advance. But take a good look at your typewriter in the sunlight after this paint has dried -- you may find that it's not really as black as the original paint.
• "The paint pen to use is Uni-Paint medium line PX-20 (or fine line if you prefer) Opaque Oil Base marker. You can order them at Staples in just about any color of the rainbow.They only take a day or two to get." -- Robert Nelson
• "For coatings touch up, ensure that surfaces are free of oils, buff exposed substrate materials with an abrasive pad, and recoat with nail polish. The 'anchor tooth' from abrading will ensure adhesion, but your requirements probably won't be higher than a simple visually detected surface profile. Nail polishes come in many shades, so you should be able to get your exact match. Also, they have a tendency to set up a little thicker than some of the automotive paints, which adds to the depth and luster of the color to better simulate the multiple layer effect of lacquers." -- Paul Dobias
• "Goo Gone" can remove unwanted paint that has been added by a previous owner, revealing the original paint and decals below.
• Many early typewriters are decorated with pinstripes -- often these are thin parallel lines of blue and yellow. Beugler offers a kit for precision pinstriping with paint. Other pinstriping supplies are available from Finesse Pinstriping. You can also find pinstriping decals at many hobby shops, or order them from The Antique Phonograph Supply Co., Route 23, Box 123, Davenport Center, NY 13751-0123, phone 607-278-6218.
• One person who can professionally re-enamel old machines and apply new pinstripes is David Teti, 5 Water Street, Torrington, CT 06790. Phone (203) 489-6411(o) and (203) 482-6138(h).
• Bits of gold may be missing from the decals or lettering. One amateurish solution is to touch them up with a fine-point metallic gold marker. This is easily scratched off, but for the beginner that's probably a virtue. The metallic marker really can improve the neatness of your typewriter if it's used wisely.
• Another metallic marker tip: the silver metallic markers can be used to cover up small patches of rust that have worn away the nickel. This is not a durable covering, and it won't be glossy like the nickel -- however, the change in color may really improve the overall appearance of the nickeled part.
• It's also possible to get nickel parts replated. You may want to consult a professional, but a home replating kit is made by Vigor-Bestfit, 320 Thornton Road, Lithia Springs, GA 30057. Phone 770-944-2733, fax 770-944-2765. The kit is available at Zak Jewelry Tools, 55 West 47th Street, New York, NY, phone 212-768-8122.
• The rubber feet on old typewriters are often damaged or missing. Bob Aubert offers replacements: "I have new black repro feet available for the following typewriters. Oliver Models 1 - 11, Royal Flatbed Models 1 - 5, Royal 10, Underwood Models 1 - 5, LC Smith Models 1 - 8, Smith Premier Models 1 - 10, Columbia/Barlock Models 1 - 20, Yost Models 1 - 4, Williams Models 1 - 6, Wellington Models 2 & 3, Remington Standard Models 2-7, Remington Pop-up Portable Mounting Grommets, and some portables which use round feet. At the present time, I don't stock any square or rectangular feet. Prices vary from $6.00 to $12.75 per set, postpaid within the US, depending on type and whether or not the mounting hardware is needed. Discounts provided for quantity purchases. E-mail at rite2aubert@juno.com or call me at (856) 461-7080. Note: There are two different sizes of stepped feet available. These may be suitable for other machines which are not listed above. The first will fit anything which has 1/2" mounting holes. The other requires 5/8" holes. Some machines need a size other than the those just mentioned. Either can be sanded down to fit using an electric utility drill and a home made holding jig in just a few minutes. Detailed info on how to do it is supplied with purchase."
• You can also visit your local hardware store in search of rubber parts that will work as feet. Sometimes a rubber stopper will be ideal (tip: squeeze the big end in first, not the small end). Andy McWilliams writes that this item worked perfectly to replace the feet on a Remington portable #5 (and they will probably work on similar Remington portables): 27/32 x 9/32 inch slip joint washers, Home Depot stock number 38809b, made by Danco Co., Concordville, PA 19331. Ryan Long had luck fitting his own Remington portable #5 with "Replacement Aqua-Seal Washers for 'American Standard,'" size: fits 2k-2h and 2c, made by Danco for faucet repair. They fit into place and lock with an O-Ring.
• Another possibility is refurbishing the old rubber feet. Carl Strange recommends "a product called Plasti Dip, which is usually thought of as a coating for hand tools; it gives new life (and restored bulk, to say nothing of a rubbery grip) to emaciated typewriter feet. A can costs about $8. I used it on a 1941 Underwood Champion and my dear old Underwood 11 with very satisfactory results."
• Replacement leather handle straps (for cases) can be cut from used leather belts. Nice replacement leather handles are also available at some music stores, as they are used on instrument cases.

• For a safe, effective finish used by museums, I recommend Renaissance brand microcrystalline wax. It can be found on eBay and at various online suppliers. Apply and buff the wax with clean cotton cloth.
• A good alternative is a commercial blend of microcrystalline waxes, in paste form, such as Johnson's "Klear" or "AeroWax."
• Mother's Carnauba Cleaner Wax (available in auto supply stores) works nicely. Other car finishes, such as Turtle Wax and Armor All, can also work well.
• Wax can be removed with a cloth dampened in mineral spirits (such as Varsol and Stoddard Solvent). Use in a well-ventilated area.
• Pledge is an easily available polish that is usually safe on typewriters (but sometimes has been known to harm decals!). I use Pledge as a cleaning and polishing agent. Spray it on a clean rag, wipe the part you're polishing thoroughly with the rag, repeat until the rag doesn't look brownish at all. However, I have been warned that overuse of Pledge and other aerosols can leave a sticky residue. Commercial polishes can also contain silicones that may be impossible to remove later. Endust claims that it contains no silicone.
• I've also heard that Fantastick works well as a polish and cleaner.
• "For typewriters that have textured finishes, I would not recommend using furniture polish. I have found that the best way to clean these surfaces without buffing down the textured finish is to use a 'fingernail' brush and a solution of baking soda and mild dishwashing detergent. I am liberal with the baking soda and conservative with the dishwashing detergent. The dishwashing detergent is mainly there for removing oils. You might be surprised how much dirt gets accumulated in these textured finishes." -- Paul Dobias
• Mother's Mag & Aluminum Polish (available at auto supply stores) is an excellent cleaner and polish for metal parts both large and small. On machines with a lot of aluminum (such as the Blick 6 or Hammond Folding) this stuff can work a miraculous transformation.
• Other metal polishes include Flyt (available at gun shops) and Simi-Chrome (which has been highly recommended to me for aluminum -- ask at auto supply shops).

• You may want to invest in a set of gunsmith's screwdrivers. They are available in boxed sets with up to 58 interchangeable bits, as well as ultrathin sets. This allows you to find a perfect fit for every slotted screwhead, so damage is less likely to occur. (Note that older screws tend to have much narrower slots than modern ones.) "The best source for these screwdrivers is Brownell's, Inc., 200 South Front Street, Montezuma, Iowa 50171; tel. 515-623-5401; fax 515-623-3896. Check out their 'Magna-Tip Super-Sets.' You'll wonder how you managed without them. About $82.00, but they'll last a lifetime."
• Sears sells very useful sets of Craftsman tools meant for repairing computers and other electronic equipment. The tools are hard steel, many have fine tips, and an ample variety of screwdrivers is included.
• A common problem is a broken carriage pull string or pull cord. The basic principle is simple: attach a new cord to the barrel (containing the mainspring) and one end of the carriage. The mainspring normally does not have to be wound up while you are doing this; it can be tightened later. But this is all easier said than done, and this repair can be frustrating.
• Fishing line can be a helpful replacement for carriage pull strings, as can "dial cord," sold by Radio Shack. The best kind of cord will be a kind that (unlike fishing line) has no give (does not stretch out). Rob Bowker writes, "In the absence of fine waxed string I have at one time used baler twine, but more poetically I have used 'cat-gut' - a nice organic replacement. A 1950s, warped and unplayable tennis racket was the donor."
• Sometimes the mainspring itself is broken. Usually one end of it has snapped off. Open up the barrel to take a look. You can usually make a new hole in the end of the spring using a Dremel wheel, and reattach the spring to the barrel.
• Feed rollers are often hardened or have developed "flats" from being pressed against the platen for decades. To rebuild feed rollers, strip the rubber from the metal core. Cut sheets of very thin latex (which can come from surgical gloves) to the right width; use soap to wash off the powdery substance that coats the latex, but do not completely rinse it off; roll the latex around the metal core while just barely dry. The latex bonds to itself.
• Platens will be recovered in rubber at a very reasonable price (around $15, depending on the platen size) by the Ames Supply Company (phone 1-800-323-3856). Ship your platen to:

  Ames Supply Company
  1936 University Lane, Unit C
  Lisle, IL 60532
  attn: platen department

  Include a note with your phone number, and they can call you with the total price, including shipping and handling for returning the platen; you can then pay by check or credit card. Or they may simply do the work and send you an invoice with the refurbished platens (expect about two weeks).

• On the west coast, you can also deal with West Coast Platen Co. They ship the platen to Ames (see above) to be recovered, but you may be able to save shipping costs by going through West Coast Platen.
• Baco Ribbons, 2914 Brentwood Blvd., St. Louis, MO 63144, 314-968-2258, will also recover platens.
• Bob Aubert suggests using rubber hose for cars to recover your own platens. "I've done it this way at least a hundred times and it works! Simply take your old rollers to a auto place, ask to see their hose stock, pick something that is close and it will be just fine. Shop for a brand that is smooth on the outside! Cut it roughly to size, slip it on, put the shaft into an electric drill, and trim the excess off with a razor while it's turning. It will look like it was done in the Remington factory!"
• Rob Blickensderfer (blickr@comcast.net) makes parts for various antique typewriters, such as Hammond ribbon spool covers, Blickensderfer paper supports and release bails, and cranks for the Smith Premier brush cleaner. Very reasonably priced.
• Jim Donahue (770-714-0556, jcd30281@yahoo.com) runs "Oliverservices," with many parts for Olivers as well as several products to service them: ribbons, touch-up paint, stainless return cable, replated parts, etc. Visit his eBay store here.

• Ribbons for most typewriters can sometimes still be found as close as your nearest office supply shop. The standard width is half an inch, and you'll find that this will work on almost all typewriters made after 1920 or so. If your typewriter can type in two colors (and most can), buy a black-and-red ribbon: it looks nice! For suggestions on ribbon sources, see my FAQ.
• Odd-size ribbons: try ribbons made for computer printers, printing calculators, time clocks, and cash registers.
• Ink rollers for Blickensderfers and other ink-roller machines can be procured at a good office supply shop. Buy rollers made for printing calculators. You'll have to cut them out of their plastic housing, and the price is a little steep ($3 or $4 for one roller -- the original Blickensderfer price was 25 cents a dozen!). Your fingers will get filthy. But it'll all be worthwhile when you see what nice work your old typewheel machine can do.
• Hammonds originally came with a rubberized cloth impression strip that came between the hammer and the paper. It is usually missing or broken, but it is necessary in order to get good typing. Paul Robert recommends: "If there is a bicycle shop in your area, go there and buy one of those narrow rubber protection strips that go around the wheel to protect the inner tube from being punctured by the spokes. Cut off a piece one half inch shorter than the full length of the carriage, punch two holes on each side and you have the perfect impression strip."
• Ink pads for machines like the Williams: I want to look into this, but haven't done research yet. Don't replace an ink pad unless you really want to use the machine, as in the long run the chemicals in the ink can corrode the type! A piece of black felt cut to the right size will look very nice.
• To make sure your types will print clearly, you'll probably need to clean out the crevices of letters like "e" and "s." Try using a toothbrush first. If that doesn't work, use the tip of a pin. Be gentle, so you won't harm the type.
• For heavy-duty type cleaning, try Fedron (see above under "Initial Cleanup").
• Alignment may be a big problem in an old typewriter. The typebars may stick at the printing point, because they're too far to the right or left. The Oliver may produce especially wacky-looking work because of the nature of its typebars. The only solution is to bend the typebars back into position, using guesswork and experimentation and care. If you're lucky, you can find some specialized tools for gently bending typebars; otherwise, try pliers.

Happy typing!